Gyuto Club

Miyabi Kaizen II 8-inch Review

A German company's Japanese knife, made in Seki. What the FC61 core and the unusually acute factory edge actually buy — and the two reasons to buy something else.

By Stephen V.Last updated How we pick

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Short version: the Miyabi Kaizen II is what happens when a German cutlery giant decides to build a Japanese knife properly rather than approximate one. Zwilling owns Miyabi and makes it in Seki, Japan, with an FC61 fine-carbide core at ~60 HRC, forty-eight layers of Damascus cladding and a factory edge ground to roughly 9.5–12° per side — which is more acute than nearly anything else you can buy at a normal retail price. It is priced against the Shun Classic and the honest deciding factor between them is the shape of the handle.

What the specs mean in practice

FC61 at ~60 HRC.The alloy name is Miyabi’s; what matters is the phrase “fine carbide”. All hardenable steel contains carbides — hard particles suspended in the softer matrix — and their size sets a floor on how finely you can grind an edge before it starts to crumble at the apex. Small carbides let you go finer. That is the technical reason Miyabi can ship a bevel this acute and expect it to survive contact with food, and it matters more than the hardness number itself. Sixty on the Rockwell C scale is squarely in hard-Japanese territory — against roughly 56–58 for a Wüsthof.

A 9.5–12° per side edge.This is the number that separates the Kaizen II from most of its competition. A German knife arrives around 20° per side; a typical Japanese knife around 15°. Ten degrees is razor territory. A more acute edge meets less resistance going into food, so the knife feels startlingly sharp out of the box — and it also means there is less steel supporting the apex, so it is less tolerant of abuse and harder to maintain, because a sloppy sharpening stroke at 15° will quietly blunt the geometry you paid for.

200 mm and 48 layers.The blade is 200 mm — the Japanese equivalent of an 8-inch Western chef’s knife, and the length we recommend to almost everyone. The Damascus cladding is cosmetic. Forty-eight layers of alternating stainless around a hard core is doing the same structural job as the plain three-layer jacket on a Tojiro DP; the pattern is a finish, not a performance feature, and we explain why in Damascus steel explained.

Two things it does badly

1. The D-handle excludes people.Miyabi’s birch pakkawood handle is a rounder, fuller D-shape than the Shun Classic’s, which is a genuine advantage if you have larger hands and a genuine problem if you are left-handed. A D-handle is contoured with a ridge along one side, and in a left hand that ridge is on the wrong edge of the grip. The blade is a symmetrical double bevel and cuts fine either way; the comfort you are paying a premium for is right-handed.

2. That acute edge is fragile, and hard to keep.A 10° bevel at 60 HRC has very little steel behind the apex. Twist it, catch a bone, or cut something part-frozen and it will chip where a Wüsthof would roll and recover. Worse for most owners, it is difficult to restore: sharpen it freehand at a comfortable 15° and you have converted an exceptional knife into an ordinary one without noticing. If you do not own a stone and cannot hold a low angle, a good deal of what makes this knife special will be gone within a year. The angle problem is covered in our sharpening angle guide.

How it compares to the obvious alternatives

The Kaizen II is cross-shopped almost exclusively against the Shun Classic, with the Tojiro DP lurking underneath as the value argument nobody wants to hear.

Miyabi Kaizen II against the two knives people cross-shop it with
 Miyabi Kaizen IIShun ClassicTojiro DP
Core steelFC61VG-MAXVG10
Hardness~60 HRC~60-61 HRC~60 HRC
Edge angle~9.5-12° per side~16° per side~15° per side
Blade length200 mm203 mm210 mm
Cladding48-layer Damascus34-layer DamascusPlain 3-layer
HandleBirch pakkawood, fuller DPakkawood, slimmer DComposite, Western
Made inSeki, JapanSeki, JapanJapan

Against the Shun Classic, this is genuinely close. Both are Seki-made, Damascus-clad, hard-cored knives at the same price. The Miyabi publishes its hardness and Shun does not; the Miyabi arrives more acute; the Miyabi’s handle is fuller. The Shun has a longer reputation, wider availability of matching pieces, and a slimmer handle that some people much prefer. If you can hold both, the handle will decide it in about four seconds. Our Shun Classic review makes the case from the other side.

Against the Tojiro DP, this is the uncomfortable comparison. The Tojiro has the same class of hard stainless core at effectively the same hardness, and it costs a fraction as much because it has no Damascus and a plain composite handle. You are paying the difference for the finish, the handle and the more acute factory grind — all of which are real, and none of which is cutting performance per dollar. Read the Tojiro DP review before you spend the extra, so at least you spend it knowingly.

Who should buy it

Buy the Kaizen II if you want a premium Japanese knife, you are right-handed with a larger hand, you own a whetstone and can hold a low angle on it, and you would rather have a published hardness figure than a brand everyone recognizes. It is the better buy than the Shun for a bigger hand and the worse buy for a smaller one, and that is most of the decision.

Do not buy it as a first Japanese knife, do not buy it for a shared kitchen where somebody will put it in the dishwasher, and do not buy it if your sharpening plan is a pull-through or a grooved rod. A 10° edge at 60 HRC is the least forgiving thing on this site. If any of that describes you, the under $200 tier has knives that ask far less of their owner.

How we reviewed this

We do not own this knife and we have not cut with it. This review is a reading of what Miyabi and the retail listing publish — steel, hardness, blade length, edge geometry, handle and construction — set against the published figures for the knives people cross-shop it with, plus the well-documented behavior of hard stainless at 60 HRC and the geometric relationship between bevel angle and cutting resistance. Every spec on the card below is dated and linked to the listing it was read from, and anything the maker does not state is marked Not published rather than guessed. The full standard is on our methodology page.

Our verdict

Miyabi Kaizen II 8-inch Chef's Knife

Miyabi is Zwilling's Japan-made line, and the Kaizen II pairs an FC61 core at ~60 HRC with a 48-layer Damascus jacket and a comfortable D-handle. A polished alternative to the Shun Classic at a similar price.

Strengths

  • FC61 core at ~60 HRC with a hand-honed, keen factory edge
  • 48-layer Damascus and a birch pakkawood D-handle
  • Made in Seki, Japan by Zwilling's Miyabi workshop

Trade-offs

  • Premium price, same as the other boutique Damascus knives
  • D-handle again favors right-handed use
Blade steelFC61 (fine-carbide stainless)
Hardness~60 HRC
Blade length200 mm
WeightNot published
Edge geometryDouble bevel, ~9.5-12° per side
HandleBirch pakkawood, D-shape
ConstructionFC61 core, 48-layer Damascus cladding

Specs read from the manufacturer listing, on July 21, 2026. “Not published” means the maker does not state that figure.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Miyabi Kaizen II worth it?

If you want a Damascus-clad Japanese knife with a genuinely acute factory edge and a handle that suits a larger hand, yes — it is priced alongside the Shun Classic and gives you a published hardness figure the Shun does not. If you mainly want cutting performance per dollar, a Tojiro DP has the same class of core steel for a fraction of the money and no Damascus.

Who makes Miyabi knives?

Zwilling J.A. Henckels, the German company, owns Miyabi and makes the knives in Seki, Japan — the traditional Japanese cutlery city. That is why a Miyabi feels like a Japanese knife rather than a German one with Japanese styling: it is made in Japan by Japanese craftspeople, using Japanese steels, to Japanese geometry.

What is FC61 steel?

FC61 is a fine-carbide stainless steel Miyabi uses across several of its lines, hardened to around 60 HRC. 'Fine carbide' refers to the size of the hard particles in the steel: smaller carbides let an edge be ground more finely before it becomes ragged, which is what makes an unusually acute factory bevel possible.

Miyabi Kaizen II or Shun Classic?

They sit at the same price and do the same job. The Miyabi has a published hardness (~60 HRC), a rounder, fuller D-handle that suits larger hands, and a more acute factory edge. The Shun has a slimmer D-handle, a longer track record and easier availability of matching pieces. Handle shape is the honest deciding factor — hold both if you can.

Is the Miyabi Kaizen II good for left-handers?

The blade is a symmetrical double bevel, so the cutting geometry is fine. The handle is not — it is a D-shape contoured for a right hand, and left-handed users typically find the ridge sits in the wrong place. The blade will work; the comfort argument for paying this much largely disappears.

How do you sharpen a Miyabi Kaizen II?

On a whetstone, matching the factory bevel as closely as you can — this knife arrives more acute than most, so a lazy 20-degree stroke will blunt the geometry you paid for. A 1000-grit stone to set the edge and a 3000-6000 to finish. Never use a coarse grooved honing rod: at 60 HRC a thin, acute apex chips rather than straightens.

Sources

Per-knife specs (steel, HRC, blade length, geometry) are read from each maker’s spec sheet or product listing and dated on the individual review cards above. “Not published” means the manufacturer does not state that figure — we flag it rather than guess.

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